Strathfield and Homebush are known for their Federation and interwar houses, and Lidcombe has its share of older homes too. Many of them still have their original front doors, often solid timber with leadlight panels, and original hardware: mortice locks, rim locks, brass knobs and escutcheons. Owners understandably want to keep that character. They also want doors that lock properly.
This guide explains how we approach the locks on older doors: what can usually be repaired, when an upgrade is wise, and how to add security without spoiling the look of a period entry.
If your home is heritage listed or in a heritage conservation area, check with your local council before making visible changes to the street frontage. Requirements vary, and councils are the authority on what is permitted.
The locks you are likely to find
Mortice locks
A mortice lock sits inside a pocket cut into the edge of the door, with only the keyhole, handle and faceplate visible. Older mortice locks often use lever mechanisms rather than the pin-tumbler cylinders common today, and many have large, simple keys.
Rim locks
A rim lock is mounted on the inside face of the door, with a box-shaped body and a keeper on the frame. Many older houses have rim locks, sometimes alongside a later deadlatch.
Later additions
Over the decades, many period doors have had a deadlatch or deadbolt added. Some were fitted carefully; others were fitted wherever was easiest, leaving extra holes behind.
What can usually be repaired
Older locks were often built to last, and many can be brought back into good working order:
- Stiff or gritty operation is often dirt, old grease and wear. Cleaning, adjusting and correct lubrication often fix it.
- Broken springs inside lever locks can sometimes be replaced.
- Worn keys can be recut or new keys made, depending on the lock.
- Misalignment is common. Timber doors in older houses swell and shrink with the seasons and frames settle over time. Adjusting the keeper or strike often solves the problem without touching the lock.
See lock repair for how we approach diagnosis.
When repair is not possible
Some older locks cannot be economically repaired:
- Parts are no longer made, and fabricating them costs more than a replacement.
- The lock body is cracked or badly corroded.
- The mechanism is simply too insecure for a main entry door. Some old lever locks have very few levers and are easy to defeat.
In those cases we talk through sympathetic replacements.
Keeping the character while improving security
Security and heritage do not have to be in conflict. Some approaches that work well:
Keep the original as a feature, add a modern lock discreetly
The original mortice lock and furniture can stay in place, serviced and working, while a modern deadbolt is fitted where it is less visible, or chosen in a finish that suits the door.
Replace the mechanism, keep the furniture
In some cases a modern mortice lock can be fitted into the existing pocket, with the original knobs and escutcheons reused or matched. This gives better security with minimal visible change.
Choose finishes carefully
Polished brass, antique brass and bronze finishes are widely available and suit most period doors better than bright chrome.
Reinforce the frame
Many older frames are softer than modern ones, and old keepers are often fixed with short screws. Reinforcing the strike or keeper with longer screws is invisible from outside and makes a big difference. See security locksmith.
Leadlight and glass panels
Many period front doors have glass panels close to the lock. If someone can break the glass and reach the inside handle or turn, a lock with an inside thumb turn becomes less secure. Options include positioning a deadbolt away from the glass, or using a lock that needs a key from both sides. That second option has a real downside, because it can trap people inside in a fire unless a key is kept nearby. We discuss that trade-off carefully with every household.
Doors that stick
Old timber doors that bind against the frame put stress on locks and keys. A door that sticks in winter is a common cause of broken keys. Sometimes the fix is planing the door or adjusting the hinges, which may be a job for a carpenter. We will tell you when the problem is the door rather than the lock.
Keys
Older locks often have keys that cannot be copied at a standard key-cutting kiosk. If you only have one key for an old lock, get a spare made while the original is still in good condition. If the key is lost, we may be able to make a new one from the lock.
Cleaning and care
- Clean brass furniture with a product suitable for the finish, and avoid abrasive cleaners on lacquered brass.
- Do not oil old locks heavily. Use a small amount of appropriate lubricant.
- Keep the door well painted or sealed to limit swelling.
- Check the keeper screws every year or two.
Examples from local streets
A Federation house in Strathfield might have an original mortice lock that works but turns roughly, a leadlight panel beside it and a later deadlatch fitted crookedly. A sensible job there might be servicing the mortice lock, moving or replacing the deadlatch with a matching finish, and reinforcing the strike.
An interwar bungalow in Homebush might have a rim lock on the inside and nothing else. Adding a discreet deadbolt with a heritage finish gives proper security without changing how the door looks from the street.
Talk to us
We work on older homes across Lidcombe, Auburn, Berala, Regents Park, Homebush and Strathfield. Call 02 4503 6922 or send photos of the door from both sides to [email protected]. We are open 7 days, 7:00 AM to 12:00 AM, and we quote before we start. You can also request a quote or read about our residential locksmith work.
- heritage
- period homes
- mortice locks